Hastings and its historic countryside

The year 1066 is one of the best known dates in the whole of England, marking the Battle of Hastings when England was conquered for the last time by a foreign power – by William Duke of Normandy, later to be proudly known as William The Conqueror. It was a victory that changed the course of history for what was then the Kingdom of England. The date: 14 October 1066.

So well known is the year 1066 that the surrounding countryside has adopted the title “1066 Country”  – follow the signs and you’ll be taken on a charming tour of historic towns and quaint villages with thatched cottages, through delightful countryside dotted with sites and ruins that recall the Norman invasion, and past many a converted oast-house and family-friendly pub where you can relax and have a friendly chat as you soak in the local atmosphere. East Sussex is one of the most beautiful counties in England, combining stunning coastline and rural charm – and, as you would no doubt expect, magnificent gardens too. Many of the old ports actually date back to Roman times.

Hastings and its countryside is an easy drive from Dover. The coast road is the most scenic, and it’ll take about 1hour 30 minutes to drive to Hastings along the A259 which you can pick up off the A20 just before you get to Folkestone from Dover – it’s all clearly signposted: look out for the brown signs.

The ‘Cinque Ports’. On the way you’ll drive through some truly pretty villages and towns – such as Hythe, Dymchurch and Rye. Hythe, like Hastings, is one of the original historic ‘cinque ports’ that date back to the 11C. There were originally just five but the number was increased in the 12C to include Rye and Winchelsea.

For steam train lovers, you could build in a visit to or trip on the Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch steam railway, first opened in July 1927 and proud to be the world’s smallest public railway. [Website provides Information also in French, German and Dutch.]

Rye is a must-see town, and fully deserves its fame. It is perched on a hill overlooking the River Rother and Romney Marsh (famous for its salt marsh lamb). The cobbled streets are flanked by houses that date back to mediaeval, Tudor and Georgian times. The atmosphere is unhurried. The shops, a treasure trove. And there are a number of lively festivals throughout the year. Rye has been famous for its pottery since the 11C when the original design was established of applying sprigs of hops and hop leaves on pots with a lead glaze to create ’Hopware’. Today, there is a far broader range of designs and type. For more information check out the VisitRye website – it’s in English, French, Dutch and German.

Although called the Battle of Hastings, the actual site is the aptly named and thriving little market town of Battle just half an hour’s drive north west of Hastings. Take a detour to visit on your way to Hastings. Explore the grounds and ruins of the Benedictine Abbey, founded in 1067 by William the Conqueror to commemorate the Battle of Hastings. Diagrams around the site give an understanding of the battle, and there’s a good view of the battlefield from the terrace.

As you head down to Hastings, you’ll also get some wonderful views over the town from the ruined 11C Hastings Castle also built soon after the battle.

The seaside town of Hastings itself retains many historic features and boasts some of the best sandy beaches of south east England – 500m long Pelham Beach with its shingle dunes is ideal for family fun, while Normans Bay Beach is quieter.

Hastings Old Town is full of domestic buildings from 14C onwards with some really good examples of each style, including pubs. There are also fascinating shapes of buildings, like one known as the wedge of cheese – because that’s exactly what it looks like! The High Street has lots of antique and other original shops, while George Street is full of intriguing shops and good restaurants, cafés and pubs too. The old town is bisected by the modern London Road, but on either side are the two main old streets down to the sea. Off both of these streets and up the sides of the hill are a number of higgledy-piggledy streets with old and quaint buildings and street names like Tackleway. The two old churches are atmospheric and worth a visit.

Also worth a visit is The Fisherman's Museum with its old exhibits from earlier fishing days. It ties in very well with the net huts, the fishing boats hauled up on shore (Hastings has the UK's largest beach-launched fishing fleet) and the fresh fish stalls just beyond them. You can buy wonderful fresh fish here. The Shipwreck Centre has all kinds of artefacts of local shipwrecks and a unique collection of historic treasures including the warship 'Anne' (1690), the Dutch treasure ship 'Amsterdam' (1749), the 'Thomas Lawrence' (1862) and 'Primrose' (the last Rye barge).

Lots of the local pubs were used by smugglers and the owners are proud to tell you about the days when smuggling was a thriving trade in the coastal towns. Another living relic of seafaring life is the wearing of sailor ponytails and two gold earrings which men are given at birth. Originally one earring was to pay for their funeral when they drowned at sea, the other was sent home so the family knew he had died (gruesome but practical)!

Just off the main road along the seafront on the way to St Leonards, is the newly refurbished Hastings Museum which is in a converted grand house which used to belong to the Brassey family. He was a Vice-Roy of India and the family brought back a Durbar Court which is installed in the house. [A Durbar Court is where the Indian princes and moguls entertained and it is quite delightful]. Continue driving along the coast to St Leonards for a glimpse of other grand old houses and the Decimus Burton buildings.

Home to the internationally renowned Coastal Currents Arts Festival, and a recently opened University Centre, Hastings is fast becoming a cosmopolitan hive of creative activity that promises to rival both Brighton and London for sheer audacity.

Practical information

Getting to Hastings from Dover: about 1hour 20 minutes drive west of Dover.

1066 Battle Abbey and Battlefield: High Street, Battle, TN33 0AD.

Tel: +44(0)1424 773792
Open Monday-Sunday: 10h00-18h00 (closes 16h00 from 01/10/08 to 31/03/09)
Admission: Adults £6.50. Child aged 5-15: £3.30. Family (2 adults/3 children): £16.30.

Shipwreck & Coastal Heritage Centre: Rock-a-Nore Road, Hastings, TN34 3DW
Site: http://www.shipwreck-heritage.org.uk/
Tel/Fax: +44 (0)1424 437452
Open: from 01/03/2008-01/10/2008 Monday-Sunday from10h00 to17h00; other times: daily except Monday & Friday (when closed) from11h00 to 16h00.
Admission: Adult £1.00; child £1.00.

Hastings Castle and 1066 Story West Hill, Hastings.

Site: http://www.discoverhastings.co.uk/castle/castle.shtml
Tel: +44 (0)1424 781112
Open: daily from 10h00 to 17h00 (Easter to October) and from11h00 to 15h00 from October to Easter.
Admission: Adults £3.75; child £2.70; family (2 adults/2 children) £11.50.