“When God made time He made plenty of it” they say here in Ireland

This part of Ireland was not made for rushing, though cities like Belfast are lively and bustling and packed with things to see and do. Because if you hurried, how would you truly savour the breathtakingly beautiful seascapes and romantic landscapes of the Causeway Coastal Route that takes you from Belfast to the Giant Causeway and beyond? How would you let the spectacular contrasts of scenery bring out the artist in you?

The Giants Causeway

The geology of the Giants Causeway makes it quite unique. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its natural and geological significance. What’s more, a recent survey has rated the Giant Causeway as even more spectacular than the USA’s Grand Canyon or Peru’s Machu Picchu ruins.

Legend has it that the giant Fionn MacCumhaill, too heavy to travel by boat, built the Causeway to access the Island of Staffa (there are geological similarities that support the theory!) and allegedly sort out a dispute with Benandonner. The bridge complete, he took a nap to recover from his toils and was awoken by Benandonner’s thundering footsteps. To his horror he realised that Benandonner was twice his size, so he fled home and got his wife Oonagh to hide him, disguised as an infant. She duly did so and welcomed Benandonner into her home to await Fionn’s return on condition that he didn’t disturb the infant peacefully asleep by the fireside. On spotting the size of the infant, Benandonner in turn took fright and fled back to Staffa, tearing up the Causeway as he did so to prevent Fionn pursuing him.

Fact is somewhat less fanciful. The geological evidence is that the Causeway is the aftermath of ancient volcanic eruptions over 60 million years ago – the polygonal basalt columns found here and on Staffa are the result of molten lava cooling rapidly as it hit seawater. The irregular shapes of the clusters of columns inspire the imagination too – there’s the Organ, Honeycomb, Shepherd’s Steps and Chimney Stacks; not forgetting the Giant’s Boot, Giant’s Harp and Giant’s Eyes.

The Causeway Coastal Route

The 120-mile Causeway Coastal Route is reckoned to be one of the most picturesque in all Europe. It starts at the outskirts of Belfast, passing through Newtonabbey, gateway to County Antrim and to the nine tranquil Antrim Glens, each more beautiful than the other. Their names tell an evocative story of myth and geography - Glenarm (glen of the army); Glencloy (glen of the hedges), Glendun (glen of the brown river); Glentaisie (as in 'Taisie', princess of Rathlin Island)… By the time you reach the Causeway itself you’ll have driven through three Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, through charming fishing villages, along rugged cliffs, and past magnificent beaches. Pause here and there to breathe in the purity of the air and let the ever-changing light inspire you. Walk along the beach or explore some ancient site. Enjoy some of the freshest and tastiest seafood you’ll find anywhere in Europe. Stop off at the Interpretive Centre at in historic Larne for the history of the building of the Causeway Coastal Road which allowed the Causeway to become a favourite stop for Victorians on their Grand Tour of Ireland. Stop off at the Island Magee peninsula for a glimpse at Scotland across the waters on a bright day. IslandMagee is noted for its active sports like horse-riding, diving, fishing and birdwatching. Its history dates back to the Neolithic Age (4000-2500 BC). On your way to IslandMagee pass through the beautiful little Victorian town of Whitehead.

Don’t miss Carrickfergus on your way from Newtonabbey to Whitehead. There is lots to see – from medieval lanes to ancient walls, the harbour and marina, the well preserved 12thC St Nicholas Church with original stained glass, medieval Carrickfergus Castle, and the Andrew Jackson Cottage – the latter a replica of the Jackson family homestead (Andrew Jackson later became the 7th US President). Carrickfergus owes its name and foundation to Scottish King Fergus who drowned in a shipwreck here in 530 AD, the spot then becoming known as Krag Fergus (The Rock of Fergus) and then Carrickfergus. It was at Carrickfergus in 1690 that King William the Third of Orange landed on his way to do battle with King James.

Round and about the Giants Causeway

There’s the early 17thC Old Bushmills Distillery at Bushmills – the world’s oldest licensed distillery. A visit will show you the art of making Irish Single Malt whiskey. Also at Bushmills, the spectacular castle-crowned rock, Dunluce Castle. Then there’s Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge at the fishing village of Ballintoy, which you reach by a short footpath, taking in some great scenery. If you dare to cross, don’t look down! And last but not least there’s Rathlin Island with its rugged cliffs, rare flora and seabird colony. One mile from Castlerock to the west of the Giants Causeway is the precariously situated cliff top Mussenden Temple (18thC).

Inland from Castlerock you’ll come to the lively and richly historic estuary town of Coleraine whose name means ‘the little fort at the (river) bend’. Records suggest that St Patrick thus named the site of the present town when a riverside plot was offered to him for the building of a church. A mile or so south, you’ll find the remains of Ireland’s earliest known settlement (before 7000BC) at Mountsandel.

And the rural hinterland?

Well, maybe that’ll have to be for another trip…

Practical Information

Main tourism website for the Causeway Coast and Glens, visit www.causewayandglens.com. Information is available in French, German, Italian and Spanish.

For additional information on Ireland including Belfast, visit www.discovernorthernireland.com

For the craic, the people or the culture, fun-loving Northern Ireland is the place to be! Find out more. And if you’re wondering what ‘craic’ means, well it’s having a laugh and a good convivial time. You need to experience it to understand it.

For a map of the Antrim coast and the Causeway Route: click here

There is motorway access from the nearby ferry ports to Newtownabbey and the start of the Causeway Coastal Route. Norfolkline sail to Belfast, just 10 miles (16km) from Newtonabbey. It’s about 90km from Belfast to Bushhills, taking the M2 out of Belfast.For driving details AA recommended routes

Norfolkline
Victoria Terminal 2
West Bank Road
Belfast, BT3 9JL
Tel: 0844 499 0007 (from UK)